Thurs. April 30

We're @Christopher's house. Oh yea, his folks are here too :) The 2 flights back to US were just fine. We had seats on the long one, across the aisle from each other. At first I didn't think that was too cool. But it actually was great. Still close enough to communicate and not have to climb in and out, for lavatory or putting shoes back on etc. Highly recommend it!

Some gardening outside w/ Jill  this a.m.(my job will be Christopher :) Then a little wander in St Paul for shops. The drive home tomorrow will be a wander too, via the Lambe Shop and Lou's gardens. (P.S. We didn't go to the gardens -- that has to be another trip)

Wed. April 29 USA

Continental breakfast @ hotel, brief walk to terminal. Not raining. Two aisles seats. Worked really well. Still seated near each other, more room (open aisle). Less room under seat. Although plane full (tour group) room overhead. Easy to get to toilets, backpacks. I forgot I don't like Chardonnay :( No Jamesons on flight!!!) M's syrah better. Flight not terrible - short nap & reading. United kept apologizing 'cause video system wasn't working. Oh darn. No flickering lights. Not as interesting approach this time either :(

Couple hours 'till flight; good book to read. Earlier post will not publish :( Always at least one...

Later...

Wed. April 29

Good morning world. Walk to airport and off we go. Spending day on planes and in airports. Weather in Mpls looks fine. Slight mist in Shannon. Later :)

Tuesday, Shannon airport, Park Hotel.

Car is successfully returned, w/ a day's credit. Checked into Park Radisson. 2 minute walk was actually only 8 minutes from terminal **grin**

Lovely breakfast of fresh fruit bowl, yogurt, wheat flake & dried fruit cereal & beans on toast. Should have said no when Eileen said they come from a tin. Didn't eat much of the bean toast. Plenty other stuff. M lovely Irish bacon and poached eggs.

Toured Bunratty Castle for a couple hours. I thought castles were bigger. M says difficult to heat if big. Tons of very narrow cement spiral stairs. Some cool furnishings & rooms. 2 banquet halls (one for peon soldiers) and 2 chapels. M went to the crenellated top. I made it to the 3rd floor! Of course he always says what I didn't see was the best. Was very interesting. Short wander around the village before we left. A man was replacing a grass thatch. Said the grass lasts about 5 yrs. Reed thatch about 25. No one doing demos. Just couple shops w/ stuff for sale. Drove on to Shannon town near airport for ravioli (me) & one last fish & chips for M. Pretty good.

Hotel has pub and restaurant. Not near personality of previous pub stay but easy to walk to :)

Time to organize stuff for return flight. Shouldn't be too bad.

Later :)

Last day to wander...Tues. April 28.

Good morning! The sun is shining gloriously this morning. Birds are happily singing. Beautiful big window to look out. Every place we have had that, except the pub **grin** Slept very well after walking 1km. back from restaurant. Mike convinced me I could do that. I hate it when he is right! Knees didn't bother me all night, and just think of calories burned :)

Things to remember: the variety of duvets (aka comforters) and pillow covers on the beds. The first night in Skibboreen, the comforter was lead-lined, I swear. Had to pull it down off the body. Beautiful patterns on them. Today's is covered in flowers - very appropriate for the location. Once again we are located in a garden spot. Eileen & Paul - hosts. His avocation is gardening. Gorgeous grounds. When we returned last night we got a tour. 2 greenhouses, one he calls a tunnel. Just a small plastic covered hoop barn :) He starts seeds; has a 200 yr. old grape his father passed on to him. Roots outside greenhouse, branches inside. Already has grapes. Lots of tomato plants (grilled cherry tomatoes part of full Irish breakfast :) He raises them for his wife. He works in vet lab. Was telling us how many more animal diseases there have been since EU opened borders.

Dinner spectacular. M had seafood pie and I, scallops w/ ratatouille. Colcanon mashed potatoes (w/ cabbage & spinach - thought of you, Jill!) and rhubarb crumble w/ honeycomb ice cream and Irish coffee. Very good we walked back :)

Young Polish couple sitting by us. I had to ask what language - no clue. Lovely chat. She has been here 10 yrs. Said it's hard to go home to visit - things are hard there. People closed up, economy and politics bad. She asked what we enjoyed most about Ireland... Thought of the beauty and fantastic food... but most of all, individual faces of all the people we interacted with. That has been the most memorable! From bartenders to hosts to people in the street. Perhaps THAT is the benefit of travel.

Today we head toward Shannon - maybe an hour or so away. Banratty castle, w/ reenactors and period trades, etc. along the way. Not to mention how we seem to just wander. We'll take all day getting there :)

Later! Jan

Monday, April 27

Still in County Clare. Ah, out of the car again. Carramore Lodge B&B, on the hill overlooking the Shannon River. And gorgeous gardens with pond, camelias, etc. Lovely room w/ porcelaine China cups for tea in room, and sun-filled sunroom downstairs off the dining room. We have been in rain, hail, and almost snow today. Forecast is for 0 Celsius (freezing). Poor flowers and blooming trees. The pansies will be ok. Not so sure about primroses or camellias.

Lunch @ Derg House in Killaloe (Lough Derg parallel to the Shannon River.) Lovely goat cheese & spinach quiche, w/ apple tarte for afters. French proprietress. Earlier we stopped @ a roadside grocer w/ homemade carrot cake & triple choc muffin. I think we've both decided to eat whatever at this point **grin** although we are sharing portions. We shan't come this way again. Lovely old-fashioned pub just down the hill for dinner. Michael seems to think the day is not complete w/o a Guinness. Goosers Bar & Eating House.

Time to refresh w/ a cuppa and maybe a short nap. Our last night wandering the countryside. Tomorrow we will be at hotel across from airport. Been interesting using a diesel auto. Diesel is about 10 cents cheaper than regular per litre. We've driven over 900 km. The sun is shining now :)

Porrich for breakfast. Runny oatlets (bag) Flahavans. Tasty w/ fresh fruit & scones. I have Joan's scone recipe and a website for Irish recipes: odlums.ie/recipes/scones

Enough for now. Later!

Mondya am

Lisdoonvarna. Today we check out and move on. Rained again during the night but no frost on car top as there was yesterday. Temps around 6 Celsius nights, about 16 during day. (That's close to 36/65 I think. Comfortable except when wind blows. Seems to do that frequently. We're about 8 miles from the coastline here.

The game plan today is to go east a bit. There's a lough (lake) southeast of here, kinda' heading back toward Shannon.  Looking for another village (or town) w/ b&b and pub in close vicinity. Bet we find something good again.

Keep forgetting to mention pheasants here. They are everywhere. And again hosts raise their own chickens. Fresh eggs :). They are free range, in field across the road. Joan said they get a few new ones each year. Haven't seen or heard them. 2 dozen eggs in entry, headed to neighbors yesterday.

Hope you have a wonderful day. It's 6:30 am here, almost. Birds are singing and M is snoring softly. He's such a dear. Touches my heart to see him sleeping, and to see him enjoying himself. Vacations are needed, or rather,  I should say, holidays :) One suitcase now full of dirty clothes.

Uillean pipes

Sunday evening. FOUR hours the Kilfenora Ceili Band played, and people danced and danced and danced.  Kids too :) Didn't rain either.
Now time for some dinner in a quiet pub :)

Sat. 2nd post :)

So - the music last night. Frankie an egotist & it showed. Fiddler. Along w/ man on guitar, man playing accordion  both electrified :(( his smile was warm & scarce) and bass player. Also two male Irish dancers, and wannabe torch singer w/ country twang :( Didn't really succeed. Huge flowers on dress. Asked M if she ever asked anyone if that made her butt look fat. She should have. Guys were in Linannes when we were leaving. Mike old the Frankie guy we came 6k miles to hear the concert. Guy didn't asked if we enjoyed it.

After concert, 2 hrs. of ceili music & dance in the 'barn'. 20€ to get in; way too fast. Had to leave when I started to worry about older gent, slightly overweight and breathless. I didn't' want to watch heart attack.

Sinead from Durrus asked us to say hi to Orla @ Vaughn's pub. We did and then while waiting for taxi hours later visited w/ her outside pub. Reminded M & I of Jude Dunn so much! Warm and friendly. She remembered us from earlier, even though Vaughns least welcoming pub. Too busy there & too crowded. In Linanne's a couple of ladies from concerts (locals) asked us if we liked the concert. Preferred Friday's at the cathedral. Chatty :) Then walking back to Vaughn's (taxi pickup rendezvous, mayor walking other direction (also MC) asked if we hadn't been in the barn & didn't stay. He wanted to give us money back. We said no - donation to festival fund for heaven's sake :) He said he's 'sometimes' mayor :) not quite everyone knows your name, but we have been noticed, for good or bad.

Off to church, lunch, outdoor concert. French couple at breakfast this am. More French for me :)

Sunday am, April 26

What a day yesterday was. Breakfast @ B&B, walk 200 meters to town center (overcast but not raining.) Sunny spells throughout the day. Burren smokeshop for tastes & Mike Irish hat. His head was cold; he was afraid to lose his 1st one so didn't bring. Then a drive around area. French bakery by orange deux chevaux gone. Really wanted a cappuccino and pastry :( Woollen Mill store where we stopped before the same saleslady (ciao!). Mike found gorgeous wool vest and wore the rest of the day :)

Back to Smokehouse for lunch. Fish chowder for M -none since match level of first one, but ok. I had an incredible crusted goat cheese on a bed of spring greens and red onion coleslaw w/ pesto and balsamic vinegar - really good! Back to Kilfenora for music. A group of Breton dancers in the hall. They gave a short program of Irish dance for a coach full of French students who left  & then M & I and a young girl Jaia from India had a private lesson for an hour or so. Lovely opportunity to speak French. Me not so good dancing. Lots of fun. Basically variations on 3 step in a circle. Then highlight of day! Concert in ancient cathedral. Old stone Abbey; part still used for Anglican worship. Tara Howley, native, & 5 others. Maybe 20 yrs. old. Played the eulian (sp?) pipes. She explained the instrument. Name means elbow. Basically she's doing about 6 things at once. Elbow squeezes bellows, fingers play notes on chanter, wrist plays 3 levels of tone's and sounds on the drone. Absolutely incredible and beautiful. She sang a few tines, explained diff between jogs and reels. Jiggs 6/8 time to the syllables rashers and sausages, reel 4/4 to bread and butter, hornpipe 'will you wash the blooming dishes'. Grand!

Sheep cheese and mini baguette for dinner and taxi back to Kilfenora. Frankie Gavan & Da Dannan. I liked earlier music events better, but was ok. We are becoming recognizable. Same folks throughout weekend and everyone  friendly.  More later!

Saturday, April 25 Good morning!

I think we're slowing down. Neither of us wanted to get up for breakfast. Joan said I just have to let her know when I'd like porrich :) This morning I enjoyed fresh Greek yogurt and homemade scone w/ fruit & cheese. Michael ate my bleu cheese. Tomorrow prolly smoked salmon & scrambled :)

Last night was awesome. Taking taxi - brilliant! Lamb stew @
Linnanne's pub along w/ assorted adult beverages. Cool shamrock imprinted on the Guinness head. Mike did get a picture. Many many French tourists everywhere we've been.

Music started w/ 2 brothers. ~11 yr old played mandolin (since age 3). Younger brother (~8) bohdran. Then 'Lumiere' two Irish ladies w/ guitar accompanist. At least half selections in Irish. Beautiful soft language we don't understand at all. They gave a synopsis of story for each one. Community hall is just like it sounds - small gathering space. Most attendees Irish;  a few of us tourists - definitely in the minority. Pubs after concert too crowded to get in. We managed to get in door for Mike's last Guinness of the day. Soft rain on and off all day, w/ some 'sunny spells.' Soft rain again this am. Plan is to walk to town centre and tourist :) Taxi to Kilfenora again tonight. Taxi driver lovely man. Picked us up @ 11pm. Said his day wouldn't end until about 4 am. I felt badly having him come back for us. He was very appreciative we were before the closing rush. Said Linannes would shut doors @ 1 but still be lively until about 5. Egads!

Later!

I forgot...

When we were here before I couldn't find fresh salmon. We just had to go to the right area. Salmon 3 days running. I still haven't had 'porrich' however. 😢

Friday, April 24

To update yesterday. Checked in to Sheep's Head Bar, restaurant and B&B. A kind of place where they know your name, and use it! Absolutely delightful! The publican (bartender), a charming 20-something w/ warmth & personality out the whazoo, shows us the room, very recently redone in knotty pine - perfect. No view she says, but quiet. Looks out into the storage area for junk from bar, and huge mastif, French chef's dog. Mike enjoys several Murphys Irish stouts like Dempseys and we shared at triffle, then we walked around a 2 acre garden the retired 80 yr . old used to be hardware store owner planted & maintains. Getting to be too much for him. It was fantastic. I've never seen camelias and rhododendrons in so many colors. One plant looked like 2 foot pine cones in mammoth rhubarb leaves. He called it gonora (reminded me of ghonnorhea (sp?) That plant I will remember.

Then two other pubs, a small market and back to 'our' pub. Interesting variance in prices. When we came in, Sinead (equiv to Jane) was starting a coal fire. She says she wanted an excuse for one and she'd tell the boss Jan wanted it. "That's my story and I'm sticking to it." I said you bet! A place where they know your name. She was GOOD.

We had lovely dinner: pub burger awesome, and Mike Irish sirloin done to a 'T'. Spent the evening talking and drinking and downloading pix, since wi-fi not reliable in room. Not a hardship. **grin**

This eve we are in Lisdoonvarna, 8k from Kilfenora. Taking taxi so Mike doesn't have to drive tonight. Bought 4 Kilfenora Ceili CDs too :) when we went through there. All set for the evening. Can I say - don't you wish you were here? Till tomorrow...

Thursday April 23

The perfect place and perfect time to stop today.

We started the day w/ Irish breakfast (tomorrow I want to try 'porrich'. Too much to eat this am to add more.

Drombeg stone circle (we got to do our salute to the day there:), then drive down the coast to Mizen Head - furthest southern point in Ireland). Goal today was to find a village w/ pub and B&B very close. Found the perfect spot in Durrus. Sheep's Head Pub, restaurant and B&B. The 'baaar is right here **grin**. Mike says B B &B ( booze, bed, & breakfast :) Room is upstairs - completely redone last season. It's 'lovely'. Small village w/ couple pubs, grocer, very picturesque. Also we got to stop early! Both tired of being in the car. Michael finally gets his pint. :) Tomorrow we heaf to Kilfenora to start the music. Although we already had music last night. Choral group was rehearsing in the banquet room of the restaurant grand :) Fun.

I have re-discovered Bulmer's Irish cider. Tasty cider made from 17 varieties of apples. Only slightly alcoholic :)

Off to explore the village. TTYL

Environment!

The Irish are very kind to the environment. Recycling everywhere. Low flush toilets (probably half the water, much stronger flow of water).

Stoppered water bottles in room and restaurants.

Trying to learn plants. Marguerite is a real gardener. She calls the yellow flowering bush gorse. Says again it's a nasty invasive.

Also a crochet-er (is that the word I want?) Lovely handmade items in the dining room. Remember, it must go in suitcase for flight!

Today's plan is to be outdoors. Gorgeous sunshine again this a.m. Stone circle, then wander Killarney for the day. Maybe 30km away :) Off and away.

Reflections

Cars & Irish people :) Some thoughts from yesterday. Upgraded car to auto. Enough to drive on left w/o teaching Mike's left hand new tricks. Of course what was available was bigger. Narrow roads... Hmmm

Irish folks couldn't be more grand. Kind, gentle, patient and polite. And extremely good food! The fish chowder last night - incomparable. Mike says THE best he's ever had. My cod in white wine sauce never been frozen. Perhaps just out of the water yesterday :) mmm!

Now for 'full' Irish breakfast. Eat your heart out Dempseys. No mimosas though.

Hope you're having a wonderful day too! Love & hugs!

Skibbereen, South Atlantic seacoast, Ireland.

10 hrs. wandering to get 2 hours south of Shannon after 44 hrs. No sleep. Lovely organic egg and ciabatta Florentine at a tiny berg along the roadside, with a healthy dose of what to see and where to go from the proprietor. His mother lives here on the south Cork coast :) I wish I would quickly pick up the accent. People  keep asking if we're on holiday :) why would that be???

Heading to a hotel nearby for fresh seafood dinner. Tomorrow Drombeg stone circle then wander back north, probably via Killarney.

Shannon, Ireland

Arrived o'dark hundred 6:45 am. The sun is shining today. Car switched to auto trans. Michael not interested in learning to shift w/ his left hand. Off to explore!

Newark NJ

Newark airport.

Is that anything like NYC? **grin**. Yes and no. Coming in we could see cliffs. Oh wait, that's NYC! Looked just like  bluffs. And we could see the statue of Liberty :) Lots of fungus (mushroom houses) & ants (people & cars) seen from on high.

Small plane, pleasant flight. Snowing in Mpls as we left, warm and sunny here. Nice shuttle from A terminal to C. Lovely Riviera lunch (restaurant) w Cotes du Rhone wine, spicey lamb sausage pasta, white bean pesto soup, & French music. I know that singer - I have the record :). Next stop Shannon, Ireland.

Tues a.m. MSP airport

Hugs and smiles with Christopher & Jill. Brian dropped us @ terminal on his way to work. TSA kinda' grumpy today. Good this wasn't first time. Different hoops to jump through depending on personalities apparently. Everyone who knows me knows how secure that makes me feel. NOT. No corkscrew in my pack. Just the little bottle opener and 5cm.  knife blade which had gone through security 4 or 5 times so far :) One could poke oneself if one tried really really hard.

Airport is quiet this am. Business travelers mostly. Must be time for Caribou turtle mocha.  Lovely cream cheese (Mike had choc) croissant with our veg omelet. Tasty but not inexpensive. Later :)

2015 Adventure begins!

April 13, 2015

Is today's date auspicious? Well, it could be. Plans are finalized and the suitcases are out in preparation for our next adventure - a music festival in Kilfenora, County Kerry, Ireland. We depart Minneapolis in a day and a week. Starting to gather things - like Ireland plug adapter, alcohol wipes in the event we encounter nettles again, new water bottle that hopefully will NOT leak or spill. The weather in Ireland, as I have been following it, is very very similar to ours. 40s in the a.m. 60s in the pm. We will take the same type of clothing we did the first time - lots of layers.

The first night we plan to drive from Shannon airport (rental car) to the southern coast. Reservations are made at Margeurite's B&B. Supposed to be marvelous seafood in the area - it's on the coast! Then in the morning the first stop will be the Drombeg stone circle (written about in Buried in the Bog.) Then we'll investigate Cork and and Killarney and head up into the interior of Ireland, which we did not see a lot of the first time. Friday we land at Goulawn B&B in Lisdoonvarna - about 2 miles from Kilfenora. We have tickets for concerts Friday and Sat. nights. Sunday is a free outdoor one. the outdoor one is what they were setting up when we were there the first time. Before the Friday concert (Frankie Gavin De Dannan) there is a musical event in the Cathedral, and on Saturday, before Lumiere, there is a recital. And the pubs start to get lively about 10:30 pm - after the concerts are over.

This week will fly by - lots to do for work and library. Later!